Pompano à la Maître d’Hôtel, 1941

Maître d'Hôtel sauce is an early 20th century recipe I rediscovered in a cookbook I have in my kitchen here in New Orleans. From The Creole Kitchen Cookbook, Virginia M. Cooper, 1946 printing. The book includes outdated cultural references one would not see today. The recipes nevertheless are appealing and sturdy. Here is how this one might look.

The attractive cover.

I like that the book was printed in San Antonio, where I went to junior high, high school, and college. Naylor Publishing ended operations around 1975, according to one source.

Here is the old-fashioned recipe. It does not start with a list of ingredients — instead, you find out as you go along!

POMPANO A LA MAITRE D'HOTEL

EDITOR'S NOTE: Be sure to cool the sauce before adding the egg yolk. The direction to do so comes a bit late in the instructions!

The best way to cook pompano is to broil it and serve with Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel. If large, split the fish down the back; if small, broil whole. Season well with salt and pepper mixed with a little olive oil or melted butter. Put the fish on the broiler and brown on both sides, using the double wire broiler.

When done, place on heated platter. Butter the fish, garnish with parsley and slices of lemon. Serve with Sauce a la Maitre d'Hotel or Hollandaise.

Maitre d'Hotel Sauce

Melt two tablespoons of butter or use olive oil in a saucepan; add two tablespoons of flour. Mix well over a slow fire, without burning; then add two cups of consomme (a clear soup, two cups of water, beef or chicken, vegetables boiled until tender, strained and boiled down to almost a jelly broth).

Add the juice of half lemon, one tablespoon chopped parsley. A little onion juice and few grains of celery salt may be added. Let all boil about 15 minutes. Remove from fire, add the yolk of one egg well-beaten, and mix thoroughly. Serve on the hot broiled pompano. Do not add the egg yolk while sauce is hot as it will curdle. This sauce is served on any kind of broiled fish.

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There are a lot of attractive photo plates of New Orleans scenes.

I live quite close to this scene just below!

I appreciate Virginia's rigor and attention to detail.

Bon appetit!